The Big 3 Upgrade: Boost Your Car Audio System's Performance
Posted by Jacob Morris on Jun 1st 2024
The Big 3 Upgrade: Boost Your Car Audio System's Performance
If you're diving into the world of car audio enhancements, the term "Big 3 Upgrade" is likely to pop up frequently. But what exactly is it, and why is it considered a crucial step in optimizing your vehicle's electrical system for added accessories like non-factory audio systems, aftermarket lights, or hydraulics? Let's break it down.
Adding the bigger diameter wire does a few things:
1. It will allow a more stable voltage and more current will be able to flow throughout the electrical components that you are adding it to.
2. You will have reduced voltage drops, making the vehicle run better under load. This means no more light dimming and less strain on the vehicle's electrical.
3. The electrical component's life will be extended from the new upgrade.
So, how to determine what size wire / batteries / alternator you need? Well, we will show you what size wire in this blog, but we have created another blog just to help you understand more about your electrical here.
What is the Big 3 Upgrade?
The BEST way to do the Big 3, then add one more step (making it the Big 4), which will be described below.
•Power/Positive alternator cable that runs to the battery’s Positive terminal.
•Ground/Negative cable that runs from your battery to the ground on your vehicle’s chassis.
•Ground/Negative cable that runs from your chassis to your engine block ground. The addition to the big 3 is below. (We have tested this, and it does make a difference.)
•Ground/negative cable going from the stock alternator bracket to the battery’s Negative terminal. (This is the extra step)
When Should You do the Big 3 Upgrade?
What we recommend is anytime that you are creating more than 1000 watts of RMS power, or you are using an upgraded alternator. (Your alternator manufacturer should recommend this also.) So doing the Big 3 should be your first step. Then you would want to look into adding either an additional battery or swapping out your lead acid battery for an AGM battery. If you still need more juice, then you would look into an alternator. But following our guide for electrical here is your best understanding of what all you will need after your Big 3 upgrade.
What Tools Are Needed?
We have several Big 3 Kits that come with everything you need to perform the upgrade yourself. We have a list of basic tools that you will need for your upgrade.
- Power Cable in length for the vehicle (Remember that if you are running the wire throughout the inside or outside the vehicle, you will want to take in consideration for the bends)
- Ring Terminals/Lugs that fit the cable diameter.
- 1/0 AWG or 4AWG heat shrink tubing (Match this with your wire size.)
- A pair of battery terminals that fit the battery post size.
- Wire cutters of the wire size.
- Wire crimpers of the wire size.
- Wire strippers of the wire size.
- Plastic cable ties (Zip ties).
- Solder and soldering iron.
- Heat gun
- Standard hand tools (Screwdrivers, wrenches, etc.)
- DMM (Digital Multi-Meter)
Where do I Start for the Upgrade?
If you can, find yourself a sheltered area that is safe from hazards. Then place your vehicle in park and make sure that your engine is completely cool before starting to work on the vehicle.
1. Choose a Plan
First, pop the hood of the vehicle and look over what routing makes the most sense for your vehicle. You are going to want to stay away from moving parts that need to work to make your vehicle run (Wheels, belts, pulleys, fans, etc.) and parts that can heat up and burn through the wire's jacket (Engine block, exhaust, etc.). Remember if you are running the wire inside or outside that you want to find a place to secure that wire that will be vibration proof.
2. Getting Your Layout Ready
First, you are going to disconnect the ground on your battery. Then you are going to want to get any of your other electrical equipment that you want to install, Batteries, Alternators, Capacitors, etc. (This does not include amplifiers, DSPs, processors, etc.) Layout the wire out next to the components that you are going to want to use and measure your wire and make sure you have a little extra wire. Keep in mind that you are going to want to cut an extra inch to an inch and a half, so you can strip your wire and put a ring terminal / lug on it. Once you have an idea that will give you enough length and a little bit extra for room, you can go ahead and cut the wire into sections that you need.
3. Prepping the Cables for Install
Now you can prep your cables for install. First make sure you measure how far your wire can go into the lug. Then you can use that measurement with the rest of your lugs / ring terminals. Once you have it measured out go ahead and try your first lug. Strip the wire with your We will always recommend using solder in a sealed solid lug. (The best connection). If you don't have copper lugs, then you can use the crimp method. There are directions for both ways below.
Lugs - We suggest that you hold onto the lug with a pair of pliers or vise if you have one or that put about 1/2" of solder into the lug with a butane torch or heat gun. Heat up the lug, then after you get it melted, stick the wire in the direction you want into the lug. Continue to heat the lug and put more solder in the lug as needed. Make sure there is no wire strands exposed. Use heat shrink tubing to seal the ends of your wire connectors.
Ring Terminals - We suggest you crimp these wires then give them a tug to make sure they are not going to go anywhere. Then use heat shrink tubing to seal the ends of your wire connectors.
4. Connecting Your Cables
You can now start connecting your cables. We prefer you start with the battery negative which goes to the chassis. Locate and grab your ground/negative cable going from the stock alternator bracket to the battery’s negative terminal and connect it. Now get your ground cable that runs from your chassis to your engine block ground and hook it up. Next you'll need your positive alternator cable that runs to the battery’s positive terminal, but DO NOT hook it up yet. You can either keep the factory wire or if it's just the power wire, you can replace it with the new bigger diameter wire.
5. Securing the Wiring
We recommend using zip ties every 12 inches if you can to something that is stable, won't require movement to have the vehicle run, and something that doesn't get hot. Give the wire a nice firm tug, just to double check. Make sure that you clip off the excess zip tie when you are done.
6. Double Check Your Work
First thing you need to do before turning on the vehicles is go through all of your connections and double check that they are secure. Before you hook up the last wire, there will be a small spark. Connect the positive alternator cable that runs to the battery’s positive terminal. (Some vehicles you will hear a click of the vehicle gaining it's power back.) Now it's time to start your vehicle. When you first start up the vehicle, check over your connections to make sure that nothing is moving and that everything is working as it should. Once that is done, you're going to want to make sure that your vehicle is charging correctly. Now days some vehicles charge lower than others. Grab your DMM and use the negative prong to touch the negative on the battery and the positive prong to touch the positive prong on the battery. If you are charging in the 13.6v to 14.8v range you should be fine. If it is cold outside some vehicles can charge a little higher until it is warmed up.
7. Check Your Grounds
So how do you do that?
Grab your DMM (Digital Multi-Meter), set the voltmeter to read ohms (impedance/resistance) and probe the battery's negative stud and ground connection on an accessory. In this instance you would touch it to the ground you want to test which is the chassis ground. If you have a reading less than 1 ohm, the ground is okay. The other connection you'll want to test is your alternator positive terminal to your disconnected positive battery cable end. This should read the same below 1 ohm reading.
If it does not read 1 ohm or below, you can make your own new ground or clean up your existing one. We will have a tutorial on how to do this properly later. However if there is any corrosion clean it off with sandpaper or a wire brush. (The ground needs to be down to the metal). Then test the resistance again.
If everything looks good and tests out properly, congratulations you are now done.
***NOTE: Some newer vehicles have a ground loops system. I would consult your mechanic on your intentions if you do have a newer vehicle.***
By performing the Big 3 Upgrade, you're unlocking your vehicle's electrical potential, setting the stage for a robust and efficient audio system or other power-hungry accessories. Happy upgrading!